Activeseam Costing the Stitch Performance

Costing ActiveSeams

A SAMPLE OF COSTING DATA FOR PRODUCTION OF ACTIVESEAM INFUSED, SLIM AND COMFORT

Merrow cost assessments will always be limited to ONE METER SEAM TESTING. While the ActiveSeam machines sew radius and straight, our testing is uniform straight. Manufacturing results will depend on the complexity of the products sewn.

Technical Definitions
Sewing Speed: The rate (in cm/s) that ActiveSeam is produced.
SPI: Stitches per Inch (inches are used as Merrow eccentrics are gauged by inch).
Total Usage: Thread used in total per 10cm of sewn seam.
Inner Needle: Thread used in 10cm of sewn seam by the inner needle.
Outer Needle: Thread used in 10cm of sewn seam by the outer needle.
Looper: Thread used in 10cm of sewn seam by the Looper.

ActiveSeam Infused on Lightweight Knit

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

15.5cm/s

Material Used

Cotton Knit

Stitches/Inch

15 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

269cm

Inner Needle

70cm

Outer Needle

101cm

Looper

98cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: Lightweight cotton knit sewn as ActiveSeam Infused using Tex 22 textured polyester thread.

Infused Active Seam on Mid-Weight fleece

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

19.4cm/s

Material Used

100% Polyester

Stitches/Inch

12 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

170cm

Inner Needle

44cm

Outer Needle

64cm

Looper

62cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: Mid-weight fleece sewn as ActiveSeam Infused using Tex 22 textured polyester thread.

Infused Active Seam on Nylon/Spandex Twill

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

23.3cm/s

Material Used

Nylon/Spandex Twill

Stitches/Inch

10 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

139cm

Inner Needle

36cm

Outer Needle

51cm

Looper

52cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: Nylon/spandex twill sewn as ActiveSeam Infused using Tex 22 textured polyester thread.

ActiveSeam Infused on Mid-weight Fleece with Hard Backing

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

10.1cm/s

Material Used

Polyester

Stitches/Inch

23 SPI

Thread Costing Data
/10 cm

Total Usage

332cm

Inner Needle

101cm

Outer Needle

139cm

Looper

92cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: ActiveSeam Infused sewn on mid-weight fleece with hard backing using Tex 22 textured polyester thread.

ActiveSeam Comfort on Jersey Knit

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

6.12cm/s

Material Used

Jersey Knit

Stitches/Inch

38 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

394cm

Inner Needle

N/A

Outer Needle

237cm

Looper

157cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: Jersey knit sewn as ActiveSeam Comfort using Tex 24 textured polyester thread.

ActiveSeam Comfort on Nylon/Spandex

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

10.6cm/s

Material Used

Nylon/Spandex Blend

Stitches/Inch

22 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

200cm

Inner Needle

N/A

Outer Needle

106cm

Looper

94cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: ActiveSeam Comfort applied to 6oz. nylon/spandex blend and sewn with Tex 30 textured polyester thread.

ActiveSeam Comfort on Merino Wool

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

6.12cm/s

Material Used

150g Merino Wool

Stitches/Inch

38 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

305cm

Inner Needle

N/A

Outer Needle

153cm

Looper

152cm

SAMPLE DETAILS:150g Merino wool sewn with 122 dtex textured woolly nylon thread in the ActiveSeam Comfort configuration.

ActiveSeam Comfort on Cotton Knit

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

8.3cm/s

Material Used

Cotton Jersey Knit

Stitches/Inch

28 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

303cm

Inner Needle

N/A

Outer Needle

154cm

Looper

149cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: ActiveSeam Comfort applied to cotton jersey knit using 40wt rayon thread.

ActiveSeam Comfort on Nylon/Spandex Mesh

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

7.7cm/s

Material Used

Nylon/Spandex Mesh

Stitches/Inch

30 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

318cm

Inner Needle

N/A

Outer Needle

171cm

Looper

147cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: Lightweight nylon/spandex mesh sewn as ActiveSeam Comfort using Tex 22 textured polyester thread.

ActiveSeam Slim on Lightweight Woven

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

7.7cm/s

Material Used

Polyester/Cotton Blend

Stitches/Inch

30 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

200cm

Inner Needle

103cm

Outer Needle

N/A

Looper

97cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: Lightweight polyester/cotton woven sewn as ActiveSeam Slim using Tex 22 textured polyester.

ActiveSeam Slim on Nylon/Spandex

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

7.2cm/s

Material Used

Nylon/Spandex

Stitches/Inch

32 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

221cm

Inner Needle

127cm

Outer Needle

N/A

Looper

94cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: Lightweight nylon/spandex sewn as ActiveSeam Slim with Tex 22 textured polyester thread.

ActiveSeam Slim on Spandex Blend

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

10.1cm/s

Material Used

Nylon/spandex

Stitches/Inch

23 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

209cm

Inner Needle

117cm

Outer Needle

N/A

Looper

92cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: Nylon/spandex blen sewn as ActiveSeam Slim with Tex 22 textured polyester thread.

ActiveSeam Slim on Nylon/Spandex

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

7.2cm/s

Material Used

Nylon/Spandex

Stitches/Inch

32 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

222cm

Inner Needle

129cm

Outer Needle

N/A

Looper

93cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: Lightweight nylon/spandex sewn as ActiveSeam Slim with Tex 22 textured polyester thread.

ActiveSeam Slim on Polyester/Spandex

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

6.12 cm/s

Material Used

Polyester/Spandex

Stitches/Inch

38 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

308cm

Inner Needle

157cm

Outer Needle

N/A

Looper

151cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: Lightweight polyester/spandex sewn as ActiveSeam Slim with Tex 24 textured polyester thread.

ActiveSeam Comfort on Lightweight Woven

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

16.6cm/s

Material Used

Polyester/Cotton Blend

Stitches/Inch

14 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

126cm

Inner Needle

N/A

Outer Needle

64cm

Looper

62cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: Lightweight polyester/cotton sewn as ActiveSeam Comfort with Tex 21 twisted multifilament nylon thread.

Infused Active Seam on Nylon/Spandex

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

7.7cm/s

Material Used

Nylon/Spandex

Stitches/Inch

30 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

435cm

Inner Needle

110cm

Outer Needle

181cm

Looper

144cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: Nylon/spandex sewn as ActiveSeam Infused with Tex 24 textured polyester thread.

Infused Active Seam on Polyester/Spandex

TESTING BASELINE:

Machine: ActiveSeam MK2

Speed: 5500rpm

Needles: GB ActiveSeam 45

Sewing Speed

13.69cm/s

Material Used

Polyester/Spandex

Stitches/Inch

17 SPI

Thread Costing Data

Total Usage

271cm

Inner Needle

69cm

Outer Needle

102cm

Looper

100cm

SAMPLE DETAILS: ActiveSeam Infused sewn on polyester/spandex using Tex 22 textured polyester thread.

Manufacturing with ActiveSeam means using Merrow's established supply chain

ActiveSeam MK2

13

Designed by Merrow to satisfy strict comfort and aesthetic requirements, ActiveSeam minimizes the number of threads used in the stitch to maintain a flat profile. Material is butted within the stitch - not lapped or bunched - ensuring a low profile and comfortable next to skin experience.

Merrow International Agencies: With over 150 Agents in 65 Countries, support for ActiveSeam is easy to come by. For a map of Merrow Agents, click here

Groz Beckert: In an unprecedented move for the the pinnacle of needle manufacturers, Groz Beckert® has designed a branded needle specifically for sewing in the Merrow MB-4DFO.

A&E: Merrow has worked closely with A&E® and other major manufacturers to determine which threads best meet ActiveSeam's aesthetic and sewing standards. Look for branded ActiveSeam thread in late 2013! ActiveSeam has nearly 100% linear travel and will stretch with fabric, meaning movement is free and unrestricted. Garments with stretch properties are no longer inhibited by their stitching.

Manufacturing ActiveSeam is supported worldwide and cost-neutral. The support of Merrow's partner's, adherence to standard business practices, and more than a century of supporting international sewing operations, make the work of producing ActiveSeam simple.

Costing ActiveSeams

ActiveSeam Infused on Lightweight Knit

Infused Active Seam on Mid-Weight fleece

Infused Active Seam on Nylon/Spandex Twill

ActiveSeam Infused on Mid-weight Fleece with Hard Backing

ActiveSeam Comfort on Jersey Knit

ActiveSeam Comfort on Nylon/Spandex

ActiveSeam Comfort on Merino Wool

ActiveSeam Comfort on Cotton Knit

ActiveSeam Comfort on Nylon/Spandex Mesh

ActiveSeam Slim on Lightweight Woven

ActiveSeam Slim on Nylon/Spandex

ActiveSeam Slim on Spandex Blend

ActiveSeam Slim on Nylon/Spandex

ActiveSeam Slim on Polyester/Spandex

ActiveSeam Comfort on Lightweight Woven

Infused Active Seam on Nylon/Spandex

Infused Active Seam on Polyester/Spandex

Manufacturing with ActiveSeam means using Merrow's established supply chain

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Designed in the Merrow Stitch Lab™